Snow Dragons Nepal Treks Pvt. Ltd.
Himalayan Explorers
Trip Name: Island Peak Climbing
Grade: Strenuous
Walking Duration: Between 5 to 7 hours, plus rests.
Support: Guide and porters.
Activities: Trekking and Climbing
Max Elevation: 6,189m
Cost: By request, dependent on number in party and total number of days.
Duration: 19 days
'Great things are done when Men and Mountain meet. This is not done by jostling in the street' - William Blake
Island Peak (6189m) is an ideal 'starter' 6000m peak for those who have trekking experience in Nepal or from other countries, or have some climbing experience. The appeal lies in its easy access, and that the route itself is not complex nor normally subject to a high danger factor, such as avalanches. However, it is over 6000m, it is strenuous, steep in places and the summit ridge is exposed. Add to this, all 6000m peaks are subject to high altitude mountain weather patterns - then it is a worthy undertaking, to be treated seriously.
The Nepali name is Imja Tse and the climbing by the normal route is graded at Alpine PD+. This basically means you need to use ropes, crampons and ice axes, be in good physical condition, be acclimatized, and if your experience is limited, use a professional guide.
The approach is grand in itself, as you walk through the Khumbu, home of the Sherpas, with peaks and glaciers all around you. See our 'In the Shadow of Everest' itinerary. Once on the mountain you will be mesmerized by the stunning face of Lhotse, towering above you, and as you turn to face south-east you look right into the fluted Ama Dablam, one of the world’s most beautiful mountains.
Snowy Dragons operate all our climbing expeditions with one thing in mind: You. You and your safety come first. Enjoyment is a bonus. Our approach walk takes into account proper acclimatization, and our pre-climb 'training' session is aimed at ensuring you understand the basics of equipment and techniques. We back this up with an emergency oxygen bottle, first aid kit, and an experienced 'reserve' guide.
The actual climbing day starts very early in the morning, leaving Base Camp, to scramble up a boulder strewn trail to reach a rocky ridge that leads onto the glacier. It is here we rope up, and cross the glacier to reach the main snow wall. Here there will be a fixed-rope, if not, we will fix our own. We start to climb, sliding a Jumar, that is fixed to our harness, up the rope Should you slip, the Jumar locks automatically, so you do not fall more than 20 Cm. However, you have to do the climbing yourself - her you have crampons and an ice axe, and a will to reach the top.
Once the snow/ice face is ascended, we follow the thin (and exposed) ridge, again, following a fixed safety rope. On reaching the summit its: Wow!!!! You feel you have conquered the world. The views are awe-inspiring - obviously Ama Dablam (6182m) stands out, proud and alone, and you feel you can almost touch Lhotse (8501m), Lhotse Central (8410m) and Lhotse Shar (8383m), which form a semi-circular back-wall to 'your summit'. To the east is Baruntse (7129m) and far away lies Makalu (8475m) - and countless other peaks and glaciers.
Reaching the summit is only part of the trip, for the summit is only a bonus. The maim goal and reward is descending safely. It is on descents that accidents usually happen, as it gets late in the day, people are tired, tend to rush, and make mistakes. We work our way systematically down the ridge, down the face, across the glacier - and down that long boulder field that no longer feels so long, to reach a welcoming Base Camp, tired and hungry, but happy.
Day 01:Welcome to Nepal. Airport pick up and transfer to your hotel. Trip planning (permits, equipment check etc.).
Day 02:After breakfast, we visit Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple) and gain a view of the Kathmandu valley and city. The afternoon is free to explore and shop, with a quick trip-planning meet before bed.
Day 03:(1). Very early breakfast, followed by the scenic mountain flight to Lukla (2800m), with your guide. Here you meet your porters, and together you trek downhill for 4 hours to the riverside village of Phakding (2600m).
Day 04:(2). A leisurely trek through the alpine landscape, passing small villages on the way, to enter the Sagarmatha National Park, at Monjo. We continue to Jorsalle (2800m) where we spend the night.
Day 05:(3). Todays path takes us alongside a rushing river, before we cross it by the photogenic ‘Namche Swing Bridge’. From here we start a long up-hill ascent in the cool morning air, to reach Namche Bazaar (3440 m), in time for lunch. Possibly with a glimpse of Everest at one rest point.
Day 06:(4). Rest and acclimatization day in the capital of the Sherpa people. Here we can shop for anything we have forgotten, and wander the streets and back alleys. We usually visit the National Park Museum, and/or take an acclimatization walk to The Everest View Hotel (3800m).
Day 07:(5). This is one of the most photogenic pathways in Nepal, with massive peaks almost in 'touching distance'. After two hours we descend to reach Phunki, for lunch, followed by the uphill climb to Tengboche Monastery (3860m). To hopefully gain a 360 degree view of the Himalayans, including Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Thamserku. We visit the monastery, the largest in the Khumbu region.
Day 08:(6). A long day. The trail now wanders through a forest of birch, conifers and rhododendrons, past Pangboche to reach Dingboche (4410m). Note. If you choose our recommended Dragon Egg Plus, we would split this day in two.
Day 09:(7). Today we follow the gentle path to Chhukung (4730m), along the wide valley, with peaks all around us. We are now at a height that you will notice the rarefied air, hence, even on this easy section it is important to walk slowly, drink a lot, and take rests.
Day 10:(8). Rest and acclimatization day - just chill out, or a short hike.
Day 11:(9). Follow the winding path below the southern flank of the moraine from the Lhotse Glacier to reach Island Peak Base Camp (5080m).
Day 12:(10). Today we familiarize ourselves with the equipment and do some pre-climb training, covering ascent and descent techniques, and the use of ice axe, crampons, ascender, descender etc. All equipment is provided.
Day 13:(11). We start very early in the morning, about 1 to 2 am. Our plan is to summit before noon to avoid afternoon winds(6189m). We used fixed ropes, and move slowly and carefully both in ascent and descent. From the summit we are treated to awe-inspiring views of both Lhotse and Ama Dablam. Descend to Base Camp.
Day 14:(12). Today we return to Pangboche.
Day 15:(13). From Pangboche, we retrace our steps to Namche Bazaar
Day 16:(14). Namche to Lukla - a long day, but our lungs are filled with oxygen. Farewell dinner with our porter staff.
Day 17:(15). Fly back to Kathmandu. Afternoon free.
Day 18:Free day (reserve in case of flight delay from Lukla). Visit temples, shop until you drop, or just rest in the hotel.
Day 19: Depart.
Dragon Eggs Plus -
1. We have already added one extra day than most initieres before Namche, to allow for better acclimatization higher up.
2. We recommend you also consider an extra day, so splitting day 8, for the same reason.
3. Day 18. We can arrange half or full day sightseeing with guide.
